.You have hundreds of choices to select from, in prices ranging from $25 to $500 or more. Key factors to consider when selecting a salmon or steelhead rod are line control and sensitivity. Because we fish a variety of rivers, large and small, the length of your rod will determine how far you can cast, and in some cases how much line you can keep off the water.Often the steelhead and salmon bites are surprisingly light so the more sensitive the rod tip, the better you will be able to detect a bite. So how do you select the correct rod for salmon and steelhead fishing?

General Information – Most steelhead and salmon rods are 8’6” to 12’ long, have medium to fast action, are designed for 6-20lb test line, and for lures/weights from 3/8 to 2 oz. There are many other options available as well which may be better suited to a specific type of fishing.

The Quick Recommendation - The most widely accepted steelhead rod is 8’6” long, in either casting or spinning. For your first rod you might want to consider one with medium power, fast action, and rated for 8-17 pound line. Similarly, a common salmon rod would be 8’6” long with fast/moderate action, medium to heavy power, and designed for 10-20 pound line.

One Rod for Both Salmon and Steelhead Fishing? - Some people try to compromise with a single all-purpose salmon and steelhead rod however we believe that it would be better to have two less expensive rods, one each for salmon and steelhead, than try to compromise with one, more expensive, rod. You seriously handicap yourself if you are using too "heavy" of a rod when drift fishing for steelhead, and similarly you may not be able to effectively fight a 30+ pound salmon using a light steelhead rod.

The Manufacturers - In addition to the manufacturers listed below there are hundreds of custom rod builders who will create a rod to your unique specifications. All of the following manufacturers create rods that are widely accepted for salmon and steelhead fishing:

• G Loomis, http://www.gloomis.com
• Lamiglas, http://www.lamiglas.com
• Rogue Rods, http://www.roguerods.com
• Berkley - http://www.berkley-fishing.com
• All Star - http://www.allstarrods.com/
• St Croix - http://www.stcroixrods.com
• Shimano - http://fish.shimano.com
• Shakespeare - http://www.shakespeare-fishing.com

So What do All of Those Terms Mean? – Unfortunately, there is no standard measurement system for the rod manufacturers. Each company has defined its own measures so a “fast action” rod from one company may correspond to a “medium action” rod for another company. Practically speaking, in order to determine the best rod for you, it is important to spend some time in a tackle shop or see if you can borrow one from a friend.

ROD TYPE – SPINNING or CASTING – In the past differences in rod and reel capabilities did make a difference for salmon and steelhead fishing. Today however, I believe they no longer exist. Some generalizations can still be made. For example, a spinning setup will usually allow you to cast lighter terminal tackle, useful when fishing jigs under a float. A spinning reel usually is easier to use and doesn’t suffer from backlashes so may be a better choice for new fishermen. A casting setup generally lets you control your line and drag a bit more easily. But these differences are nominal, so the choice is yours, both a spinning and a casting rod will work equally well in most fishing conditions.

ROD LENGTH – The most common rod length is 8 feet, 6 inches long. This length of rod is well suited for casting distance, and provides good line control. This rod length is widely used for drift fishing, and the various boat fishing techniques. If you are fishing larger rivers, you may want to consider a longer rod, 9 or even 10 feet in length. Finally, many float fishermen prefer a rod in the 10-12 feet length so they can keep as much line off the water as possible, thus reducing the amount of line drag caused by the river current. Remember however that a longer rod takes more time to set the hook and often weighs more than other rods.

ACTION - Rod action refers to the flex characteristics of a rod and is a measure of how much the rod flexes, and as important, where that flex occurs along the length of the shaft. “Extra Fast” actions concentrate more of the flex towards the tip. “Slow” actions distribute the flex progressively throughout the entire blank. Moderate action rods fall in between. Please note that there is no standard measurement system accepted by the entire industry, so not all actions are exactly alike across the various manufacturers. POWER – The “power” of a rod refers to how much pressure/force it takes to make it bend. Different rod powers are designed to handle a certain range of lure weights and line sizes. The heavier the line and lure, the more power you'll need to cast, fight and pull effectively. The lighter the line and lure, the less power you'll need. Here are some other things to consider regarding your choice of rods Balance with your reel - No matter what rod you choose, test it for proper balance with the reel you intend to use. A rod that balances well will let you fish all day, while a poorly balanced rod quickly becomes a chore to fish with. You can add weight to the butt of the rod in many ways. Some companies sell weights but we have found that a few quarters glued to the butt will serve the same purpose. Check the reel seat to make sure it is solid and does not twist. Check the cork to make sure it has no flaws. Guides - Silicone carbide, and Fuji brand sets the standard.

• Warranties - I think the story on warranties is about to change. The high-end guys started offering life-time warranties and more or less raised the bar for all the guys selling stuff in the $200-400 range. Unfortunately they cant make money at it. Not wanting to create a poor service reputation, they have honored many "breaks" as "flaws", and it's costing them all their profit. In a recent tackle trade magazine this was discussed at length and just about everyone agrees, that they need to move back to 90 day or one year deals and become less generous on their return policies. The problem is everyone seems to be waiting for the next guy to start -- kind of the "let Mikey try it" syndrome. I guess I agree with the manufacturers -- if it’s going to break because of a defect, it will probably happen fairly quickly, so the 90-365 day warranty is probably satisfactory.
• Rod Junction - I was fishing one day, got hung up on a rock, pulled back, and heard that ugly very loud "Craaaaaak" sound. It broke off right at the junction. I suspect now that the pieces must have worked loose or were never seated tightly to begin with, (operator error), and that was the end of that rod.
• Spare Rod - I always take at least one, (read 3 or 4), spare rods/reels when I go fishing just in case. So it may be a good idea to think about a backup.