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Introduction
Until a couple of years ago, the answer to “which line
are you using?” was simple – virtually everyone
used one of the various brands of monofilament line. Now however,
the choices have expanded significantly: mono is still quite
viable, the new spectra-super braid-super lines have some
wonderful properties, fluorocarbon lines are almost invisible
in the water, and hybrid lines that usually involve a coating
or combo of polymerized line yield a ‘best of’
properties. So which do you choose? There are pros and cons
to each.
Line manufacturers
have invested heavily in developing new fishing lines that
are better, stronger, and almost invisible in water. Fishing
line has become a marketer’s delight. There are numerous
lines available, many with unique features, however some of
them are merely Madison Avenue hype. While we mention several
brand names in this section, when you go to your tackle store
you may see new ones and may not find some of those mentioned
here. So be prepared to experiment.
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Quick
Choice Recommendations - Even though choosing
the right fishing line today has become more complex than
ever, monofilament lines are still the favorite among the
majority of anglers.
Drift
Fishing Line Recommendation - The clear
choice of steelhead and salmon anglers for many years
has been Maxima Ultragreen. It delivers
excellent performance, is easy to use, has consistent
reliability, and is relatively invisible under water.
You can use this line both for your main line and
as a leader.
Steelhead
line - 10-12# for main line and 8-10# for
leaders
Salmon line - 15-30# for main line
and 15-30# for leader
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Leader
Line Recommendation - I have tried numerous
brands from the inexpensive to the top end stuff. I eventually
settled with P-Line for most of my fishing,
and I’ve been happy with this brand for sometime.
For leaders I have been using 8#
and 10# P-line Floroclear line for steelhead leaders
exclusively for the past two years. For salmon fishing I
have been using 20# Floroclear.
Float Fishing Line Recommendation - I suggest
one of the high visibility braided lines like, Tuf
Line XP, for your main line because it floats,
is easy to cast, and has no line stretch. Try 20-30# test
Tuf Line, Power Pro, or Fireline for your main line and
the same leaders mentioned above. Please remember that you
need to use special knots for
these lines.
Salt
Water and Heavy Line Applications - Many mono
lines work well in both fresh and saltwater. The lines of
choice for these applciations is either Izorline or Trilene
Big Game line.
Cost
- Expect to pay $8-$25 or more for 125-300 yard spools. Mono
lines are generally less expensive than the hybrid and braided
lines. Many companies offer larger spools of line, 1,000-3,000
yards or more, but I prefer to buy the smaller quantities
for freshness even though if stored properly, most lines today
have an almost indefinite shelf life.
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Five
Major Categories of Fishing Line
Over the past few years we have seen significant growth in
the number of line choices. Following is a brief discussion
of the major choices available today.
1. Traditional
monofilament lines
2. New “super” braided lines
3. Hybrid & Copolymer lines
4. Fluorocarbon lines
5. Leaders
| 1.
Monofilament Lines - For decades this has been
the line of choice and is the bread and butter of fishing
lines. In the late 1950’s Dupont made the first
nylon based monofilament fishing lines for Stren and since
then new formulations and new companies have entered the
field and have created variations that come in a variety
of colors, sizes and strengths. Monofilament lines maintain
good knot strength, are usually cheaper than other types
of lines, and work well in a variety of fishing conditions.
It is designed to be limp and soft, and it casts easily
on both casting and spinning reels. It’s inexpensive,
reliable, and can be purchased with just about every variation
you could want. Its major weaknesses include less abrasion
resistance, some have line memory, and they have a thicker
diameter than other alternatives |
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Monofilament
line stretches, which can be bad or good. Stretch makes line
more forgiving when a big fish makes a strong run, but it
also makes it harder to set the hook. The amount of stretch
can be controlled by the additives but all monofilament will
stretch some.
| 2.
Braided Lines – These lines are noted for
their strength, the very small diameter, their non-stretch
characteristic, and their abrasion resistance. It can
be up to four times smaller in diameter than mono lines
of the same line strength. Anglers seem to either love
it or you hate it. Most anglers that spurn braided lines
have had bad experiences with casting, or damage caused
to their rod components. The newest braided lines sport
new weave processes and state of the art coatings which
increase the rewards that come with utilizing braids,
while drastically reducing some the drawbacks. |
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Many fishermen
have found these lines excellent for both float fishing, because
the line floats, and for plug fishing in conditions when you
have lots of line out. Because of the no-stretch characteristics,
you can get a quicker hook set, and because the lines are
very strong, you get fewer break-offs.
Along
with all of the great new features goes some less friendly
characteristics. Because the lines are very narrow in diameter
and have slippery surfaces, they have a tendency to interleave
when wound tightly on your reel. The result can be horrendous
backlashes where the only viable solution is to cut them out.
Further
these lines have a tendency to twist. It is not uncommon to
have the line wrap around your rod tip, and if you happen
to pull at the wrong time, you could be replacing your fishing
rod. Finally, because there is virtually no stretch in the
line, you need to be more careful with setting the hook and
then playing your fish. You need to be more careful with your
drag settings on your reel in order to effective use these
lines.
Finally,
you will need to use special knots for these lines. Because
the line surface is slippery, common improved clinch, Trilene
knots, etc will not hold. See our discussion on knots, here.
| 3.
Hybrid & Copolymer Lines: Copolymer is a
product of copolymerization, which is a chemical reaction
in which two or more molecules combine to form a larger
molecule that contains repeating structural units, or
in other words the combination of two or more monomers
to create a copolymer. The outcome of this process results
in a material that has many more benefits than a solo
substance. The copolymer fishing line becomes more abrasion
resistant, have a lower stretch factor, higher tensile
strength, higher impact and greater shock resistance,
and much more. |
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I’ve
found that several of the lines, (P-Line copolymer, Floroclear
especially), have quickly become my favorites. These lines
offer less stretch than mono counterparts, and more than the
no-stretch braided liens. Further, knot strength is good with
traditional knots. Next, I have found these lines to be more
abrasion resistant than the mono lines, and finally, the flouro
coatings are as effective as the pure fluorocarbon lines.
4.
Fluorocarbon lines - When you immerse a fluorocarbon
line in water, it blends in so well that it's almost impossible
to see with the naked eye. And if the fish can't see it, they
are far less likely to spook and more apt to strike. These
lines have almost the same refractive index as water so it's
practically undetectable to fish, (the line reflects light
the same as water, blending with surrounding water instead
of standing out.). Most have high tensile strength, excellent
abrasion & UV ray resistance, and very low stretch. Another
added feature is its minimal water absorption, creating a
stronger fishing line, in or out of the water. It is a great
choice to tackle the toughest fishing conditions.
Fluorocarbon fishing line has grown in acceptance over the
past 2-3 years. There are 3-4 major manufacturers now offering
100% fluorocarbon fishing lines in a variety of line strengths
and sizes. These lines are relatively more expensive when
compared to traditional monofilaments, but most fishermen
think they are worth it.
Fluorocarbon
has been offered for years as a leader material because of
these properties, but recent improvements in the processing
have enabled makers to manufacture it with enough flexibility
to be used solely as fishing line.
5.
Leaders – Unlike fly fishing where leaders
have a specialized designs, most steelhead and salmon fishermen
use a lighter version of one or more main lines for their
leaders. Seaguar, and several others, offered specialized
flouro-based leaders but with the more widespread introduction
of copolymer and less expensive mainline fluorocarbon based
lines, their competitive advantage has diminished. Salmon
are less line shy so a heavier leader is in order. Steelhead,
on the other hand, are more easily spooked so a lighter and
more invisible leader is in order. Any of the lines mentioned
in this section can be used for leaders, but over the past
couple of years I have been using P-Line Floroclear in either
8# or 10# test for my steelhead fishing. See our discussion
on length recommendations and rigging your leaders here.
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Line
Characteristics Considerations
Here are several considerations to take into account when
choosing your next fishing line
Line
Strength – Be sure to match your line to the
rod & reel you are using, the fish you are targeting,
and the fishing conditions you expect to encounter. All rods
come with a recommended line weight that should be followed.
An exception is braided line, where you may want to match
it’s diameter to the recommendeded monofilament equivalent
– see chart below. Further your reel will indicate different
line capacity for various weight lines. Next I always try
to use a line strong enough to effectively and quickly be
able to bring a fish to net/hand. Especially if you are going
to release some/all of your catch, you want to be able to
bring them in quickly so as not to wear them out to much.
And finally, if you are going to be fishing in rocky, snag
filled waters, you want to make sure that your line is extra
abrasion resistant.
For most
steelhead fishing, a line weight of 10-15# will be more than
adequate, with slightly heavier line for plug fishing. For
Salmon fishing, line weight in the 15-30# range is common
practice.
Finally,
always use a leader that has less strength than your main
line. When the inevitable snag happens and you have to break
it off, you will only lose a small amount of leader, and leave
less in the river.
Line
Stretch - Line stretch has been a matter of personal
choice for several decades. The mono line manufacturers have
offered variations from low stretch to others than can extend
by as much as 25-30%. Further with the introduction of the
braided lines we now have the option to choose a no-stretch
line. Line stretch is an effective shock absorber during the
hook-set and when a fish makes a rapid change in direction.
Some fishermen argue that having a little stretch in their
line also results in less tearing of the fish’s lip,
so the hook is more less likely to fall out. Others argue
that a no stretch line gives you more direct contact with
the fish and thus more control. So you have a choice in this
regard for your own personal preference.
Monofilament
can stretch as much as 25%. For example on a 20 yard cast,
the stretch can be as much as 5 yards. This figure sounds
unbelievable but tests and research will back this statement.
The negative result of line stretch is greatly reduced power
on hook-sets.
Braided
lines have a near zero stretch even when wet. This will result
in most power at the point you need it most, the hook. In
return, you will be able to land a much great percentage of
the fish that strike your bait.
The hybrid
lines seem to strike a balance between the very stretchy mono
lines and the no-stretch braided lines. I find this a very
appealing characteristic.
Abrasion
Resistance – A very important characteristic
that I require in fishing line is abrasion resistance. The
first thing river anglers look for in fishing line is abrasion
resistance. Many trophy steelhead and salmon escape by breaking
or weakening the line on their teeth, rocks, or other obstructions
in the water. Frequently check your line for nicks or frazzles
or areas of abrasion that will cause a weakness.
When fighting
a decent fish, in fresh or saltwater, three things can happen:
(1) the fish goes deep, pulling the line across rocks, logs
or other hard objects, (2) the fish is big and the line will
rub across its body or tail, and (3) other things, such as
the boat, a jetty, surface objects or dock, or even other
fish in the area, may bump into your line. All three factors
will cause abrasion, eventually prompting the line to break.
After every fishing trip, or after playing out a nice fish,
cut off approximately ten feet of line and retie, if you have
reason to believe it may have been frayed. Please put that
expended line in your pocket to dispose of properly at home
rather than leaving it by the river side.
Line Color – Most manufacturers offer
several color options. Many offer line with no visibility,
ie clear or light green, and others with increasing visibility,
ie blue, Pink, Gun Metal, to very visible Hi-viz yellow, and
day-glow chartreuse. Choice of line colors is mostly a personal
preference guided in part by the type of fishing you are doing.
Many fishermen want to see their line when they are plug fishing
or float fishing so choose one of the highly colored options.
By seeing you line more easily you can have greater control
over it. On the other hand if you are drift fishing, side
drifting or boondoggin, you may want to choose a line with
little or no visibility, as the fish may be spooked by seeing
your line in the water.
In any
case you should always choose a clear/invisible line for your
leader. Steelhead especially can be easily spooked by your
line.
Floating
or Sinking Line – With the introduction of
the braided lines, you can now choose either floating or sinking
lines. Generally a sinking line is preferable in most cases
except for float fishing and drift fishing from the bank on
large rivers where you have a lot of line in the water.
Most mono
lines readily sink and will permit you to keep your line low
in the water where the steelhead and salmon are located.
Floating
lines are especially helpful when you are float fishing because
you can mend them much like the fly fishing technique to give
you a longer natural drift. This also applies to drift fishing
large rivers when you will have a lot of line in the water.
Knot
Strength/Performance – Not all lines perform
the same when tied into a knot. Further the new braided lines
require special knots to be used effectively. Because a knot
inherently twist and adds stress to a piece of line, it creates
a weak point. Most of the lines offered today will give you
80-95% of the strength of the line itself. See our discussion
on knots here. Further be aware
that some knot have a tendency to loosen over time so should
be checked frequently. Finally, understand that most mono
and copolymer lines are the more forgiving and offer the better
knot performance than the braided/super lines.
Line
Diameter – Obviously the diameter of a line
affects its strength. But it also affects casting distance,
how deep your line will travel in the water, and its visibility.
Generally speaking the smaller diameter the line is the better
but the smallest diameter lines tend to create more backlashes.
When selecting
braided lines, it is best to choose a line of similar diameter
(not test) to mono lines, especially for a new super line
user. As you get more familiar with the performance of braided
lines, you may want to choose a smaller diameter for longer
casts and less current drift, but it is still recommend that
you use a line of higher strength than monofilament in any
particular fishing application.
Braided
to Mono Line Comparison
Line Size Recommendations:
|
To
Replace this
Monofilament Line
2 to 6 lb
6 to 8 lb
8 to 12 lb
12 to 20 lb |
Use
this
Braided Line
10 lb
20 lb
30 lb
50 lb |
Line
Memory/stiffness – Some lines are stiffer than
others and some retain some of the twist caused by storing
it on your reel. Generally you want to choose a line with
the least amount of line memory.
Line
Quality – Lines come in a wide variety of qualities.
The more expensive lines have better quality control and will
be consistent in strength, color and diameter. They will hold
up longer on the spool and in use. Sometimes, even though
a manufacturer has an excellent reputation, it can still suffer
from quality control issues. A good example is Berkley who
introduced a fluorocarbon line a few years ago names Vanish.
This line proved to have quite inconsistent quality, with
some sections quite good and others, with a very low breaking
strength.
Line quality
can actually vary even coming from the same spool. It is always
best to check your line as you spool it onto your reel.
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General
Tips – Here are some general tips regarding
salmon and steelhead fishing lines
- Use
scissors or clippers not your teeth. I promise you that
your Dentist will appreciate this tip. More than one angler
has had his day of fishing cut short with a chipped or broken
tooth caused by trying to bite off the tip of his line.
- Because
braided lines have little/no stretch, you may want to wait
just a moment longer to set the hook than you would if you
were using mono lines.
- Change
line frequently. Your line can develop small nicks and be
affected by the elements or from strange substances found
in your tuck bed. You dont want to miss the fish of a lifetime
with a broken line. To save a few dollars, consider replacing
the final 75-100 yards on line on your reel.
- Have
spare line available when you are fishing. You don’t
want to prematurely end a day of fishing because of multiple
break-offs or by getting spooled by a runaway fish.
- Check
for nicks in your line several times throughout the day
- Recycle
- When you have completely worn out the braided line on
your spool, try taking it off the and spooling it back on
your reel backwards.
- Monofilament
can be damaged by excess exposure to direct sunlight. Keep
your equipment in a dry, shaded area. Fishing on a hot summer
day is fine. Keeping your rods in a hot car trunk, or exposed
to direct sunlight in the back seat, is not recommended.
- Store
all bulk line in a cool, dark place. Direct sunlight will
damage monofilament over a period of time.
- Monofilament
will twist. If it happens while fishing from a boat, play
the line out with nothing on the end, trolling behind the
boat for about five minutes. It is also important to always
use a ball-bearing swivel, which will reduce or eliminate
line twist.
- If
you fish a lot and regularly change your line you might
want to consider buying line in bulk, ie 1,000-3,000 yard
spools. The savings can be substantial.
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Line Manufacturers
Here is a list of line manufacturers and brands that are commonly
used for steelhead and salmon fishing. Please remember that
new lines a coming out frequently and some on this list may
not be available in your local tackle store, so be knowledgeable
when you go to purchase new line.
Berkley
– Trilene, Fireline, Iron Silk, Big Game, more
Maxima
– Ultragreen, Chameleon, Clear, more
Sufix
– DNA, Tritanium, more
Power
Pro –
P-Line –
Floroclear, Spectrex, more
Seaguar
Ande
– Premium, Tournament
Yozuri
IZOR Line
Private label lines, ie Cabelas, others
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