..….1. Introduction ......2. Rigging for the Float …………Rod, reel, and line considerations …………Terminal tackle setup ..................Floats/bobbers ..................Terminal rigging ......3. Bait/Jigs/Lures ......4. The Drift .............Areas to fish .............Set the depth of your float .............Making your cast/mending your line .............Bobber Down!! - playing your fish ......5. Other Tips

Introduction
Fishing with a bobber/strike indicator/ float is about as old as fishing and has been used for salmon and steelhead fishing for decades. Over the past few years however, this technique has gained significant interest, and next to drift fishing, is now probably the second most popular method of fishing for steelhead.

The gain in popularity is well deserved for several reasons:

1. It is easy to learn and much easier to detect a bite than other techniques.
2. It is a quite versatile form of fishing and you can use a wide range of terminal tackle.
3. You can use your existing tackle, although specialty rods and lines are recommended.
4. You can fish areas of the river where other techniques often don’t work as well.
5. You usually lose less tackle to snags so you spend more time fishing rather than tying tackle.
6. You can float fish effectively from either the bank or from your boat.

Learn from the experts - One of the all-time great steelhead fishermen, Dave Vedder is a staunch believer in float fishing. I highly recommend two of his books for further reading:

Float Fishing for Steelhead, by Dave Vedder
Steelhead Jig Fishing Techniques & Tackle, by Dave Vedder & Drew Harthorn

In addition, Amato Press has a good video, Float Fishing for Steelhead, by Nick Amato, Rob Crandall, Matt Guiguet

When I first starting float fishing my favorite spots I was surprised by how much I learned about water depth, and obstructions. In particular, spots that I had fished for years, turned out to be less deep than I thought in some cases, and in others, I quickly learned about new obstructions. Dave Vedder calls the bobber, the "poor man's depth finder". For me, it certainly added to my knowledege of the river and my ability to read holding water.

I learned the importance of adding float fishing to my fishing technique arsenal one day as I was hiking along a river's edge from one spot to another. Along the way, there is a stretch of water that I just knew held fish but is rather slow moving and every time in the past I had tried to fish it, resulted in a snag and break-off. Well that day I had my float rig with me, and sure enough, on the very first cast, a 10 lb winter-run decided my jig was too good to let go by. So indeed, float fishing gives you a chance to fish water that otherwise may not be accessible. By the way, that previously unfishable spot has become one of my most favorite 'go-to' spots to fish.

There certainly is a special thrill of anticipation as you watch your bobber float through prime holding water, and complete joy when you see it disappear underwater! I recommend that you spend some time learning this technique and ratchet up your joy of fishing another notch.

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Rigging for the Float

Rod, Reel, and Line Considerations – While your standard drift fishing rig will certainly work for float fishing, there are a few considerations to take into account when float fishing. First, terminal tackle is often very light so you may want to consider using a spinning rod/reel for easier casting rather than a traditional bait casting setup. Also, because you will be letting out a lot of line and probably free-drifting it, flipping the bail on your spinning rod results in less line drag than free-spooling your bait casting reel.

Second, this technique results in a lot of line in the water and a requirement to minimize drag, so using a longer rod will give you more control over your line and the drift. Many float fishermen will choose a rod that is 10-12 feet or longer. See our discussion on rods, here.

Finally, I recommend using a braided line to give you better control over the drift. Primarily because it floats, it will be easier to mend your line, (much like fly fishing), when necessary. See our discussion on lines, here.

Recommendation - A common setup for float fishing then would be a Lamiglas 9 1/2-10 ft medium action, (8-12# line rated) rod, a Shimano Symetre spinning reel, and 15-25# braided line, Fireline, Tuf Line, etc.

Terminal Tackle and Setup – There are many ways to rig your terminal tackle. The first consideration is whether to use a fixed or sliding bobber. Generally speaking both work equally well so it is a matter of personal preference. The sliding bobber setup is preferred when you are fishing deeper sections of the river or have limited casting space when fishing from the bank.

Floats/Bobbers - Thill, West Coast Floats, clear bobbers you fill with water for added casting weight and balancing with your bait, or even the old round cork floats all work quite well. In addition, many choose a dink float which is basically a 1/2 to 3/4 inch diameter cylindrical piece of foam.

Tongue-in-cheek tip – if you use one of the classic red & white bobbers you had when you were a kid, be prepared for some chuckles and ribbing from your fellow fishermen. :-) The key to successful float fishing is to match the size of your float to the weight of your bait/jig/lure. Your float should have just enough buoyancy to stay above the water line but not so much as to require significant pressure to move under water. Next you want your float to be large enough to be visible during a long float but not so large as to spook the fish. Generally speaking, the smaller the float, the better. If you match your float to your weight correctly you can greatly increase your catch rate.

Bobber Stops/Beads - If you are using a sliding bobber you will need to have a bobber stop and bead combination to adjust the final positioning of your float. It is very easy to tie your own bobber stops, see here. Note that a knotted and trimmed rubber band also makes an effective bobber stop. I usually try to use a clear bead positioned just below the bobber stop, but any color/size will work so long as the hole in the bead is not so large as to let your bobber stop pass through.

Terminal Rigging – Many fishermen tie their bait/jig/lure directly to their main line, attach a bobber a few feet above, maybe add a few split shots, and are good to go. I usually add a swivel to separate my main line from my leader. The swivel not only keeps out some line twist but also serves as a bottom-bobber stop, which is necessary if you don’t want to see your bobber keep on going downstream after breaking off a snag. Next, I usually tie a 3-4 foot fluoro leader between the swivel and my bait. See our discussion on leader choices here.

Finally, you may want to add some weight to your line. Split shot, “egg type”, in-line chain-weights, or even the slotted football shaped weights with a piece of rubber down the middle all work effectively under your float. Weights are used to help you with casting and to keep your bobber standing almost vertically in the water. Try to place your weight at least 12-18 inches above your bait. Here are a couple of examples of rigging for float fishing:

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Bait/Jigs/Lures for Float Fishing
This is one of the fun things about float fishing; just about every steelhead and salmon bait can be effectively presented below a float. See our discussion on bait, here. Following is a brief explanation of the common baits used when float fishing:

• Jigs – This is probably the most common offering used when float fishing. Sizes from 1/32 to 1/2 oz lead head jigs can be used with 1/8 and 1/4 oz being the most common. All colors seem to work well, but for some reason, lots of fishermen like either pink, pink/white, red/black, purple/cerise, all red, or all black. Pink Sponge Jigs are a perfect fit for float fishing. Try a little prawn or sand shrimp tail section on your jig as a variation.
• Natural Baits – Fishing roe, sand shrimp, prawns, or Sponge Sacs all work quite well. I usually use a #2 barbless Gamakatsu hook. See our discussion on hooks, here. When using natural baits I use a little yarn or a Sponge Float pegged with a piece of toothpick to keep it from moving back up the line.
• Pink Worms – These are an excellent choice for float fishing. Try rigging one “wacky style”. See our discussion on pink worms, here.
• Flies – Float fishing gives you a chance to tie a streamer or a beaded nymph under the float. Where regulations allow multiple hooks, try using a fly as a trailer, or dropper, under your main bait
• Spinners – Fishermen successfully use spinners under floats particularly in river sections that are very “snaggy” or difficult to access using other fishing methods.
• Special Set-up - Try this sometime. I prepare small roe sacs, (6-8 individual eggs), and fish them quite successfully on jigs. An alternative is to use a Sponge Sac which works quite well with your favorite scent.

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The Float Fishing Drift
Areas to fish – Virtually all of the traditional holding water for steelhead and salmon can be fished with a float. See our discussion on Reading Holding Water, here. As in other techniques, there are particular situations that are more well suited to float fishing and others where a different approach would be better.

Generally speaking, float fishing is not your best choice in fast, high water conditions and situations where visibility is less than 3 feet. A better choice would be to try drift fishing or plunking in these situations.

Float fishing is particularly good for fishing areas with significant underwater snags, slack/frog water areas, spots with obstructions near shore, and of course the traditional slots, runs, and holding water. Float fishing lets you cover a lot of water so long runs where you can free-spool your line and let your gear travel from the top to the bottom of a run are ideal. Using this technique to target suspended fish is particularly productive.

Set the Depth of Your Float – You want your bait to travel approximately one foot or more off of the bottom. If the water you are fishing is four feet deep, set your bobber 3 feet above your bait. Remember, fish cannot see downas well as they can see up, so you want your offering to drift above the fish. They will rise to grab your bait, even during cold water conditions. As you begin to fish the run if you notice that your bobber is catching/jerking backward, your bait is probably hitting bottom so you will want to shorten the bobber’s position. Similarly, if you make several passes along a run and don’t catch a fish, try going a little deeper.

Making Your Cast – Just like traditional drift fishing techniques, make your cast slightly upstream. It is always best to start fishing slightly above where you think the fish are most likely resting and then work your way down stream towards them.

Start your first drift close to shore. Many fishermen mistakenly wade into the water up to their knees and then hurl their offering as far out into the middle of the river as possible. Little do they know that they may actually be standing in the best fishing location in the river. Both steelhead and salmon quite often travel only a few feet from the water’s edge in 1-3 feet of water. On successive casts move further away from shore. Then take a few steps down stream, and start the process over again.

Watch Your Bobber - Keeping a close eye on your bobber will tell you a lot about the position of your bait. It should always precede your bobber down river. The ideal situation is to have your bobber standing straight up and down or slightly tilting up stream. If the top of your float is leaning down river, this means that your jig is dragging behind and to correct this situation you'll need to reel in your slack and pull back on the float.

If your bobber is tiling back a lot, your bait is probably traveling too high off the bottom. Try adding a little more weight to your leader.

Mending your line - The key to successful float fishing is to eliminate as much drag on your bobber and terminal tackle as possible. To do this may require mending your line several times during the drift. Mending your line means lifting it up and off of the water, flipping it upriver, and reeling in excess slack line while trying not to disrupt the natural movement of your float. Try to avoid a “belly” in your line usually caused by different current speeds across your drift. When a belly starts to form, lift up your rod as high as possible and flip as much line as possible back upstream, hopefully without affecting your bobber. Depending on the run you are trying to fish, you may have to use short casts, or move your position relative to the sweet spot. You can even consider casting directly upstream.

End of the Drift - At the end of the drift don't automatically reel in your line. Point your rod at the float and let your rig just hang in the current for a few seconds. Sometimes a steelhead will follow your offering and strike it just as it swings towards the shore. Sometimes I'll gently pull up on the rod a few feet and then slowly drop the rod tip back down. This extra movement will sometimes trigger a strike and it usually happens when the bait is falling back down.

Bobber Down! - What a thrill it is to see you bobber submerge or even start moving upstream!! It is definitely time to set the hook. But also understand that sometimes the fish do not slam your bait but rather mouth it, and swim along downstream. Your bobber may also just stop, or begin to move sideways, or even move up and lay flat on the water, (fish taking your bait and moving toward the surface). You should never be afraid to set the hook when your bobber makes the least unnatural move.

For the next few minutes you will be appreciating all that time you spent standing in the rain freezing your buns off. But it’s not over. Playing your fish in a timely manner, bringing it to hand, and taking a picture make the thrill almost complete. Check here for our tips on playing your fish. Because steelhead are endangered, we strongly recommend that after taking a picture, you give it chance to fulfill its mating destiny, or be available for another fishermen to enjoy on another day.

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Other Float Fishing Tips

• Barbless/Sharp Hooks - Because you have a bobber between you and your hook, you lose some power when setting the hook. I always use barbless hooks because they penetrate better. Take time to sharpen your hooks.
• Use Scent - Float fishing drifts are characterized by their length. Applying scent to your bait will definitely travel downstream and because your bait is in the water longer, provide a good scent trail to attract more fish.
• Gradient - Always start shallow and increase your depth if you are fishing deeper runs.
• Don’t Use Too Much Weight - It is important to balance your bobber to the weight of your bait/jig/lure, however if you use too much weight overall, you will not get the natural drift that increases your fishing success rate.
• Target Suspended Fish – When you encounter good water visibility and fair temperatures, try moving your bobber up and down so you can fish throughout the water column. Start by fishing a foot off the bottom and on successive casts, move on up to mid water column.
• Twitch your line - If they don't hit dead drifts, then try twitching the float as it moves thru holding water, which gives more action to your bait and may cause a following fish to strike.
• Deep Water - I rarely fish jigs in water more than 10 feet in depth, areas which can be more effectively covered with drift gear or spoons.
• Mucilin/Line Treatments - If you are using standard mono for your main line, consider treating it with a floatant material. I usually coat as much line as I think will be in the water, ie 75-100 feet. You will be surprised at how much better you can manage your line to avoid having it slack/belly out. it will also increase your hookup rate because you will be able to make a stronger hook-set.
• Pay Attention - Sometimes when your float is passing through "seemingly unproductive" water on the way to the next sweet spot, we lose our concentration. I have to admit that more than once, Ive looked up and couldnt find my bobber, only to miss a good strike. Steelhead especially, will move a fair distance to attack a suspended offering, especially if it is floating naturally down river. Attracting the "fish from nowhere" is one of the key advantages to float fishing. You should always be ready for that special strike.
• Spinner and Spoon Drift - Manage your presentation so that at the end of the drift, you can put tension on your line, and let the spinner or spoon swing in an arc thru the tail end of a run. Fish will often chase a lure through a tailout and the current will give your spinner or spoon good action.

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